Wayne Magazine May 2019 | Page 48

ANTS CLIMBING TREE Sichuan Sensation Cheng Du 23 may be the best Chinese restaurant in North Jersey I WRITTEN BY ESTHER DAVIDOWITZ | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MITSU YASUKAWA t’s Monday night and Cheng Du 23, a Sichuan Chinese restaurant in a strip mall in Wayne, is hopping. There are young couples on dates. A big family with grand- parents and grandkids. There’s a group of work colleagues. Most everyone is Asian, including my dining companion, a Chinese-American food lover who resides in Wayne. He comes here about once week. After two recent meals at Cheng Du 23, I, too, will be making frequent visits. I’ll be taking friends and family with me to ensure that they, too, get to experience what may be the best Sichuan restaurant in North Jersey, if not the best Chinese restaurant. Make that the best authentic Chinese restaurant. Sure, Cheng Du offers Americanized Chinese dishes, dishes that most Chinese people never eat — e.g., cream-cheese Wayne CHENG DU 23 6 WILLOWBROOK BLVD. 973-812-2800, CHENGDU23.COM stuffed crab rangoon (Chinese people don’t eat dairy; most are lactose-intol- erant), thick-shelled egg rolls (the Chinese eat thin-shelled spring rolls), chicken or beef with broccoli (broc- coli is not an Eastern veggie). But if you’re here to eat the real deal, ignore those dishes and go for the “authentic Sichuan” grub (you’ll find the real Chinese eats on the menu under “Authentic Sichuan Cuisine and Chef’s Specials). And there’s quite a lot to choose from. As far as the look of the restau- rant, it’s typical of Chinese restau- rants here: a big mural depicting GREEN STRING BEANS WITH PORK 46 MAY 2019 WAYNE MAGAZINE Chinese landscape, big fish tank (here stocked with bright orange koi) and a Buddhist altar (there are two tucked in a corner with fresh oranges as symbolic offerings). There’s no bar, but you can bring along a bottle of wine — or do what most Asians do, drink strong tea with your meal. Consider starting your meal with xiao long bao ($8), aka soup dumplings or juice buns. “I come here for this dish alone,” my dining