ANNE-MARIE CARUSO |
For Robbie Felice , cooking isn ’ tabout formal training or experience — it ’ s about love of the craft . Hailing from Stockholm , 28-year-old Felice brings farm-fresh flavors , an impressive résumé , and , most importantly , passion to his Italian restaurant , Viaggio . Felice grew upworking in his dad ’ srestaurants , and came to love cooking . As part of the training he received atthe Culinary Institute of America in New York , he “ externed ” at Mario Batali ’ sflagship restaurant , Babbo , then worked at the Highlawn Pavilion and The Manor in West Orange . After picking up skills while traveling in Europe , he returned to New York and joined the two-star Michelin restaurant , The Modern . From there , he moved to Fascino in Montclair , where hejoined his culinary mentor , Ryan DePersio .
The next kitchen Felice worked at was his own : He and his father , Joe , opened Viaggio in late summer , 2016 . Felice says he doesn ’ tmind the 70-hour work weeks . The adrenaline rush in the kitchen and the satisfied customers make the hard work worth it .
What drew you to becoming a chef ? Ireally liked the creative side of it . You get to be an artist and express yourself through food . You can really do anything — you can have one ingredient and makea million different things . And then , I like seeing how happythe food makes people . Food makes the world go ‘ round , and it ’ scool to be part of that . Plus , chefs are so highly regarded now . It feels good to be doing something that is prized by others .
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ROBBIE FELICE Viaggio 1055 Hamburg Turnpike , Wayne ( 973 ) 706-7277 , viaggioristorante . com “ WE DON ’ T JUST COOK TO FEED PEOPLE ’ SSTOMACHS . THERE ’ S DEFINITELY PASSION IN OUR KITCHEN . THERE ’ S A STORY BEHIND EACH DISH . LIKE , THE PAPPARDELLE ALLAMEMA IS DEDICATED TO MY GRANDMA .”
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What has been your best experience serving the public ? It ’ sanawesome experiencetoown my own restaurant . My name is on everything and some people walk out of theresaying , “ This wasthe best meal I ’ ve ever had .”
Your worst experience ? As for the worst , well … the toll it takes on your body . When I worked at The Jane [ in Belgium ], we worked 19- to 21-hour days . I would go back to my apartment , sleep foranhour or two , and then go right back . Itwas insane . We would get screamed at and mocked , like “ What are you doing ?” and “ How could you not do that right !” Once I got through that ,
Iwas like , thank God , but at least now I feel like I can do anything .
What do you want people to know about your food ? We don ’ t just cook to feed people ’ s stomachs . There ’ sdefinitely
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passion in our kitchen . There ’ sastory behind each dish . Like , the Pappardelle alla Mema is dedicatedtomygrandma . It ’ sgot meatballs and asweet sausagesauce . Growing up in a big Italian family , she made abig pot of sauce and meatballs and sausage onSunday . We would all go over , and youcould just smell the saucecooking all day . It ’ sone of my best memories . Sometimes she comes to the restaurant .
What kind of feedback have you gotten over the years ? Before Viaggio , not to brag , but Ialways knew Iwas good based on the kinds of feedback Igot in the kitchen . Ireally took to the environment . Ialwaystookonmore , worked every station . With 20 million chefs in the industry , you really need to hustle and grind and work hard . And when I ’ ve heard customers say , “ That meal was brilliant ,” it just makes me strivetowant tokeep getting better .
What ’ syour most popular dish at Viaggio ? Calamari fritti . It ’ sbeen ahit since the beginning . And the octopus appetizer . It ’ sbraised and charred in acast-iron skillet .
Do you have any tips for holiday food preparation ? It all starts with cooking from the heart and cooking with passion and love . Ifyou try and show that you care , it ’ salways going to come out well . As for anactual tip , make sure your seasonings are well-balanced and use some acidity to boost the flavors , like with vinegar and lemon . It brings yourfood to the next level .
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