ANNE-MARIE CARUSO

Felice grew upworking in his dad’ srestaurants, and came to love cooking. As part of the training he received atthe Culinary Institute of America in New York, he“ externed” at Mario Batali’ sflagship restaurant, Babbo, then worked at the Highlawn Pavilion and The Manor in West Orange. After picking up skills while traveling in Europe, he returned to New York and joined the two-star Michelin restaurant, The Modern. From there, he moved to Fascino in Montclair, where hejoined his culinary mentor, Ryan DePersio.

The next kitchen Felice worked at was his own: He and his father, Joe, opened Viaggio in late summer, 2016. Felice says he doesn’ tmind the 70-hour work weeks. The adrenaline rush in the kitchen and the satisfied customers make the hard work worth it.

What drew you to becoming a chef? Ireally liked the creative side of it. You get to be an artist and express yourself through food. You can really do anything— you can have one ingredient and makea million different things. And then, I like seeing how happythe food makes people. Food makes the world go‘ round, and it’ scool to be part of that. Plus, chefs are so highly regarded now. It feels good to be doing something that is prized by others.

“ WE DON’ T JUST COOK TO FEED PEOPLE’ SSTOMACHS. THERE’ S DEFINITELY PASSION IN OUR KITCHEN. THERE’ S A STORY BEHIND EACH DISH. LIKE, THE PAPPARDELLE ALLAMEMA IS DEDICATED TO MY GRANDMA.”

What has been your best experience serving the public? It’ sanawesome experiencetoown my own restaurant. My name is on everything and some people walk out of theresaying,“ This wasthe best meal I’ ve ever had.”

Your worst experience? As for the worst, well … the toll it takes on your body. When I worked at The Jane [ in Belgium ], we worked 19- to 21-hour days. I would go back to my apartment, sleep foranhour or two, and then go right back. Itwas insane. We would get screamed at and mocked, like“ What are you doing?” and“ How could you not do that right!” Once I got through that,

Iwas like, thank God, but at least now I feel like I can do anything.

What do you want people to know about your food? We don’ t just cook to feed people’ s stomachs. There’ sdefinitely

passion in our kitchen. There’ sastory behind each dish. Like, the Pappardelle alla Mema is dedicatedtomygrandma. It’ sgot meatballs and asweet sausagesauce. Growing up in a big Italian family, she made abig pot of sauce and meatballs and sausage onSunday. We would all go over, and youcould just smell the saucecooking all day. It’ sone of my best memories. Sometimes she comes to the restaurant.

What kind of feedback have you gotten over the years? Before Viaggio, not to brag, but Ialways knew Iwas good based on the kinds of feedback Igot in the kitchen. Ireally took to the environment. Ialwaystookonmore, worked every station. With 20 million chefs in the industry, you really need to hustle and grind and work hard. And when I’ ve heard customers say,“ That meal was brilliant,” it just makes me strivetowant tokeep getting better.

What’ syour most popular dish at Viaggio? Calamari fritti. It’ sbeen ahit since the beginning. And the octopus appetizer. It’ sbraised and charred in acast-iron skillet.

Do you have any tips for holiday food preparation? It all starts with cooking from the heart and cooking with passion and love. Ifyou try and show that you care, it’ salways going to come out well. As for anactual tip, make sure your seasonings are well-balanced and use some acidity to boost the flavors, like with vinegar and lemon. It brings yourfood to the next level.