Washington Life - October 2015 02 | Page 73

Ernest Hemingway in Cuba Hemingway still looms large over the Cuban literary and historical landscapes. Cubans virtually adopted the American writer in the two decades after he bought a home in 1940 in the small, working-class town of San Francisco de Paula, just south of Havana. CUC’s (convertible pesos) on our first day after arriving from Miami on a 40-minute charter flight. In the one-room reception area at Jose Marti International Airport we were asked for for a ’70s-era customs form that curiously asked if we were carrying walkietalkies into the country and for paperwork showing why as Americans we should be allowed into Cuba. “U.S. tourism to Cuba is still technically illegal, although it still occurs,” said Tamar Lowell, CEO of Access Trips, which began guided culinary and cultural tours of Cuba last month. “So, all of our tours are operated as licensed “people to people” educational exchanges.” Piling into a ’57 Chevy station wagon (reconfigured with a new Mercedes Benz engine), we checked into our seaside villa reserved on Airbnb (which began operating here last Spring), and set out to discover culturally-rich Havana. We explored open-air art exhibits, organic city gardens and farm-to-table mercados, took salsa lessons and mojito classes and prowled the cobblestone streets of Old Havana, home to four city squares teeming with vibrant street life and color. On Havana’s streets you meet people who do their best with the status quo – the average Cuban earns $20 per month – making do while maintaining their passion and optimism. Under socialism, Cubans have guaranteed health care and schooling and artistic freedom is encouraged - up to a point. In the old squares, we found street performers and pop-up art galleries, such as that of mixed media muralist and painter Salvador Gonzalez, who utilizes everything from bathtubs to car parts. Some of our best meals were found at paladares, or privately-owned restaurants, a concept that has allowed both average Cubans and culinary superstars to open their kitchens to tourists looking for something more palatable than the starchy fare served at government-owned eateries.  We found some of the best via “finders” hawking menus on the street and then guiding us up rickety stairs for home-cooked meals. Try eclectic modern Mediterraneanstyle cuisine at Atelier or La Fontana for spiny lobster, whole octopus and ropa de vieja (traditional Cuban pulled pork).You’ll love an old favorite like the low-key Casa de Erasmo, owned by Fidel Castro’s former chef. As a sprawling, traffic-choked city of two million people, there are few beaches in Havana worthy of a swim. The best place for a beach break is an hour to the south, at Playas de Este, where the 80-degree, crystal clear waters feel like a warm, relaxing bath. Ahh, Cuba. MUST STAY: Havana A more authentic – and more affordable – lodging option is stay in a Cuban home, as Airbnb recently launched in Cuba and has 1,000 listings (www. airbnb.com). Otherwise, Cuba has more than 44,000 affordably-priced hotels. A few in Havana’s five-star luxury class include the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, the Melia Habana, Hotel Mercure Sevilla Havane and Hotel Saratoga WA S H I N G T O N L I F E | o c to b e r 2015 | washingtonlife.com The heads of prized African antelope still hang on the walls. In a writer’s studio overlooking the ocean, his Corona typewriter sits idle, having produced two of his most celebrated novels, “For Whom the Bell Tolls” and “The Old Man and the Sea.” Hemingway’s sport-fishing boat “Pilar” is docked near a pool where on warm Summer nights Papa and Fidel sat by the pool, smoking Cohiba Corona Especials. Cuba’s Cigar Country Two hours south of Havana lies Pinar del Río, Cuba’s “cigar country,” encircled by the stunning mountains and dense forests of Viñales National Park. It is worth the drive, as this is one of the lushest, most scenic parts of Cuba. We shared the road with horse-drawn buggies and farmers herding cattle before t ouring a tobacco plantation and small plants where laborers produce Cuba’s finest rums. With abundant hiking, rock climbing and spelunking, the Vinales Valley has become one of Cuba’s top destinations for ecotourism. We explored a massive cave which snaked under a mountain and into a clearing, where a local farmer was giving his water buffalo a warm Summer bath. MUST DRINK Havana Best Places for a Cocktail Havana is swelteringly hot and sticky humid on any given day of the year, but luckily has no shortage of watering holes to cool down. In Plaza Vieja we found a private microbrewery serving beer mojitos and a roastery serving iced coffee. The Hotel Nacional has live music on its outdoor patio most nights, as do the Hotel Riviera, La Bodegita del Medio, the roofdeck of Dos Mundos or the pool area of Parque Central. Be sure to check out La Floridita, the watering hole of Ernest Hemingway and birthplace of the daiquiri. 73