PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE COURSES |
The Refuge golf course( a Troon Golf property) has undergone extensive renovation, with Nathan Crace expanding and improving upon the original Roy Case layout. It feels almost like two different courses. The front nine winds out and back to the hotel and includes a fun stretch of three par 3s in four holes. The area’ s natural beauty is showcased on the inward nine, where the course really opens up. The highlight was the fun short par-4 16th, drivable for the longest hitters who want to attack the water fronting the green, but playable for the rest of us.
After the round, we set out north again for the final portion of the trip. Before getting to Tunica, though, we made a stop in Cleveland to check out the GRAMMY Museum Mississippi, one of two such museums in the country, the other being in Los Angeles. An immersive and interactive experience, the museum is a worthwhile diversion for anyone with a love of music.
We arrived at our final stop of the trip, the Tunica Resorts area just south of Memphis in northwest Mississippi. If the Gulf Coast is Mississippi’ s Vegas, Tunica certainly feels more like the state’ s Laughlin— not quite as glitzy, a little more cozy, but still plenty of fun. We were scheduled to play two courses in the area— Tunica National and River Bend Links— but inclement weather forced us to abandon the second round.
Tunica National’ s Champion Bermuda greens were as good as any on the trip, rolling firm and true, even in the face of winds that whipped up out of nowhere midway through the round. You could feel the difference between the top and the bottom of the state at that point, with the winds making Tunica National feel like we were playing on the Oklahoma prairies. The course featured plenty of challenges, including the closing par 4, with a stream about 100 yards short of the green forcing decisions for those who hit shorter drives.
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River Bend Links was created through an alliance of three of Tunica’ s casinos, which saw the need to offer alternative entertainment for hotel guests. A massive flood in the early 2010s led to a course closure, restoration and change in direction. Now privately owned, River Bend is a Scottish links-style course along the Mississippi River with treeless terrain and grass bunkers— a departure from the wide-open nature of Tunica National.
With golf in the rearview, the trip came full circle on our final night in the Magnolia State, as we headed south from the Crossroads to Clarksdale proper. First stop: Ground Zero Blues Club, co-owned by Morgan Freeman. Tameal Edwards, the club’ s booking manager, says she likes to feature lesser-known artists at the iconic venue, and that evening’ s performer— Muddy Alexander— fit the bill.
Music aside, the second we sat down at the table— adorned with a simple, plastic, checkerboard picnic-style tablecloth— we knew we were in for a treat. Fried catfish, vinegary cole slaw, the barbecue platter and fried green tomatoes were menu highlights.
Ground Zero does attract some high-level talent, though. The club rang in 2025 with Al Green on stage, and Freeman made a surprise appearance for a duet, singing Green’ s 1972 hit“ Let’ s Stay Together.”( Side note: Rumor is that Green really digs those fried green tomatoes.)
Afterward, we walked off the fried food and grooved at a real-deal Mississippi juke joint— Red’ s, a cash-only, beer-only spot featuring authentic, sweaty Delta Blues.
Swapping stories at a blackjack table at the Gold Strike late into the night, we came to a simple conclusion: Mississippi is far from a traditional golf destination— but if you’ re looking for a variety of golf, music and culture, the Magnolia State is certainly a revelation worth exploring.
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River Bend Links ABOVE: The Refuge Golf Course
GETTING THERE Gulf Coast: Catch a connecting flight from any Virginia airport to Gulfport-Biloxi International( GPT). Most will connect through either Charlotte or Atlanta.
Central Mississippi: Direct flights into Jackson( JAN) from Reagan National or BWI. Connections available from other airports.
Tunica Resorts: Direct flights into Memphis( MEM) from Reagan or BWI, with connections available from other airports. Tunica is about a 40-minute drive south of the airport.
WHEN TO GO: Spring and fall are peak seasons in Mississippi. The summer, as one would expect, is not. In fact, some courses will shut down for the entire sticky month of July to aerate and prepare for the coming cooler seasons.
FOR MORE INFO:
• Visitmississippi. org
• Coastalmississippi. com
• Tunicatravel. com
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