Village Voice December 2013/January 2014 | Page 21

Tianzifang is a small area of old residential housing pierced by a maze of narrow streets that are chock-a-block with arts and crafts shops, restaurants and bars. It is one area of Shanghai that has not been touched by redevelopment and hence is a near-pure example of the city in its old form. Vendors left, right and centre try to woo you in with their English catch-phrases to look at their wares. The Shanghainese living above the commercial hustle-bustle sit on their window ledges amongst their washing and gawk at the tourists beneath. An area called Xintiandi is perhaps the polar opposite t