The Craft of Coffee
From sustainably-managed small-batch roasting operations to world-renowned testing facilities and sensorial education programs , Vermont ’ s independent coffee roasting companies are leaving an influential mark on the industry with their innovative business practices . Working with state-of-the-art technology , they harness the power of controlled heat to unlock the rich and full-bodied flavors of the world ’ s finest coffee beans .
Coffee is far more than just a daily grind for Vermont ’ s most distinguished coffee roasters . It ’ s a creative outlet in which they channel their artistic passion .
Tall Cat Coffee
Dorset , Vermont based coffee roaster Kim Bryant began her journey in the coffee business after a chance opportunity allowed her to take over her friend ’ s roasting company . According to Kim , “ a good friend of mine started Tall Cat Coffee . She ran it for a little less than a year before she decided to move away from the area . I had already been helping her a good deal with the roasting process , so she asked me if I wanted to buy her company . I was working as a fishing guide in Vermont at the time , but that type of work was very seasonal . I grew tired of the instability . I wanted to run my own business and find a steady source of income that would allow me to better provide for my family . I ’ ve always loved coffee , so it was a natural fit for me . I took over Tall Cat in 2016 , and I ’ ve grown the company every year since . I like to think that people tend to find success in the fields that they ’ re passionate about .”
According to Kim , her roasting process begins by pouring the beans into her roasting machine , where they are “ roasted in a rotating steel drum over a propane flame . I roast my coffee in a ten-kilo roaster . It ’ s definitely considered a smaller model . There are thermocouples wired into the base of the drum that are hooked up to a laptop with roasting software installed on it . One of the most important stages in the roasting process is known as “ first crack ”. The stage gets its name from the popping sound that happens when the moisture in the beans begins to rapidly escape – much like popcorn in a microwave . That ’ s the point where you need to turn the heat and the gas down . A good analogy for what ’ s going on at this stage in the process is thinking of it like the steam in a sauna . If you pour water on the rocks in a hot sauna , it gets really steamy , and the temperature can quickly skyrocket . Roasters are the same way . There are a lot of factors that influence temperature spikes , so you have to be very careful . I try to maintain a very precise limit for temperature fluctuations during the roast sequence . You want the software that measures temperature fluctuations in the roaster through the thermocouples to show a nice , steady , graceful “ S-shaped ” curve . The temperature goes up and down during the different stages of the process , but you never want any incredibly sharp increases or decreases in the temperature . I like to think that the process of coffee roasting is equal parts art and science . In order to ensure a consistently delicious final product , I have to channel my creative passion into the roasting process – while still remaining diligently aware of the technical side of things as well .”
Kim says that the variations in the density and varietal type of the “ single-origin ” coffee beans that she uses determine the ideal temperature sequences for her roasts . Each single-origin coffee is sourced from a particular area and particular type of coffee plant , as opposed to blends , which are comprised of multiple different strains of coffee bean . Kim explains that “ Every single origin coffee is different in terms of the ideal roast temperature . The denser beans – such as one of the Costa Rican coffees I use – always take longer to roast . I ’ ve become increasingly aware of the subtle differences between the beans as I ’ ve progressed in my roasting career . I ’ ve been doing this for long enough now that I can look at a certain type of green coffee bean and know what type of coffee it is from the smell . Many Ethiopian coffees I work with have an unmistakable smell of chocolate covered cherries . Each coffee has its own signature aroma and scent .”
Kim describes her personal coffee taste as “ bold and complex . I tend to prefer the African coffees . They are very lively in terms of flavor . They have a fruit forward quality . I myself go towards Ethiopian or Kenyan coffees . You ’ re not going to get that ‘ one-note ’ chocolatey taste with them . I also tend to like a full-bodied cup of coffee more than a light one . America is currently experiencing the apex of what we refer to in the coffee world as the ‘ third-wave ’ style of roasting . Third wave coffees tend to be very light , with a very thin body . I personally opt for fuller and richer tastes . I roast my coffee to match my taste . My most popular coffee is my darkest blend . It ’ s called “ Cat ’ s Meow .” It ’ s a blend of Colombian , Sumatran , and Ethiopian coffees . It ’ s extremely well-balanced . You get a little fruit from Africa , a little chocolate from South America , and a little bit of that earthy grounding taste from Sumatra . It would be like the base note in a perfume . It ’ s a really well-rounded and structured coffee .”
Kim says that her favorite thing about running an independent coffee roasting business in Vermont is the connections that she has made with her customers in the local community . “ I ’ m at the Dorset Farmer ’ s Market every Sunday all year long when it ’ s open . Being with the people who are enjoying my product in the local community is amazing . I have so many people who come to the farmer ’ s market on Sunday to buy their bag of coffee for the week from me . One of the best things about being able to sell my coffee to local shops and at my stand at the farmer ’ s market is that it ’ s an environmentally-sustainable business model . By selling my coffee face-to-face to my customers in my community , I can both cut back on shipping costs and offset the ecological impact of my roasting operation . It ’ s great to be able to make that kind of positive impact on a global scale while I connect with people who I know on a personal level from my town . I think people in Vermont are really aware of the importance of supporting local businesses . I grew up in Northern Vermont . My mom ran a small business similar to mine . A part of me always imagined living in a small community like Dorset and owning a business just like this when I was growing up . I ’ ve been able to actualize that through my work with Tall Cat Coffee . It feels great to play an active part in the business community and the social community in my town .”
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