Ultimate Guide To Africa June 2015 | Page 29

29 REGULARS ACCOMMODATION DIRECTORY the water to graze, and tree-climbing lions sprawled in the branches of gnarled, bendy fig trees. With its mix of savannah, woodland, and extensive wetlands, the park packs in huge bird numbers, including crowned cranes, woolly-necked and saddle-billed storks, and Goliath herons. Our seasonal bush camp was situated deep in the heart of the Busanga Plains, a marvellous wetland where we not only walked with guides, but also headed out on river cruises, fish eagles swooping overhead as we marvelled at the skills of pied kingfishers zipping in and out of the water, surfacing with fish in their beaks. And when we went out on drives, we were taken around in Africa’s first electrical game-drive vehicle, the "eLandy". Not only was it eco-friendly, but also marvellously quiet. IN THE KNOW watch as waterbuck, Cookson’s wildebeest, bushbuck, zebra and giraffe appeared in multitudes across the plains. Back at Puku Ridge Camp, our smart ecofriendly tented lodge at the edge of the escarpment, we lazed on the deck and stared into the rain-soaked night. The shadows of wild dogs scampered across the horizon and elephants trumpeted happy choruses somewhere in the blackness. And we’d fall asleep listen ing to deep-bellied hippo grunts that sounded like the laughter of drunken clowns. Luangwe isn’t the kind of place you ever tire of, but we wanted to see another of Zambia’s lesser-known reserves, Kafue. Said to be the second-biggest national park on earth, it is vast and untamed; a raw, rugged, isolated expanse that feels like proper wilderness, centred on the Kafue River. We watched enormous Nile crocodiles basking in the sun, pods of hippos trundling out of SERVICES GUIDE ACCOMMODATION GUIDE READ FEATURES ULTIMATE GUIDE TO AFRICA - FOR LUXURY TRAVEL