THE JOB
PERFECTING THE POP Imitation shrimp from alumna-founded company New Wave Foods use algae and plant-based protein to create that distinct texture without the environmental harm .
THE SHRIMP THAT ISN ’ T
How to craft a better crustacean .
BY RACHEL MCNELLIS ’ 18
LAS VEGAS IS KNOWN for extravagance , a land of plenty in the middle of the Nevada desert . Yet for all the casino glitz and spectacle , nowhere is the indulgence more on display than the legendary allyou-can-eat seafood buffet , filled to the brim with lobster galore and big , juicy shrimp on sparkling beds of ice .
Dominique Barnes , MAS ’ 14 , a Las Vegas native , grew up wondering how such a thing was possible : How there could be such quantities of seafood in the middle of the desert ? From a young age she was fascinated by the ocean and set her future sights on marine biology , even landing a gig as a shark biologist in downtown Las Vegas , of all places . “ Yet that role wasn ’ t fulfilling because it didn ’ t have the conservation component ,” she says , explaining why she then applied to Scripps Institution of Oceanography .
One acceptance letter later , she found herself on the coast , learning about ocean ecology and working on research vessels . But it was one class about phycology — the study of algae — that captivated Barnes , given the enormous potential algae had to drive change in countless avenues . “ Between food , fuel and even clothing — it convinced me that algae could really save the world in one way or another ,” she says .
While a student , Barnes channeled her passion for algae into a business she dubbed Algae Press , an educational and artistic program that introduced elementary and middle school students to algae and its vital role in ecology . The project was bolstered by participating in the Tri- Net Challenge , an interdisciplinary competition to promote the success of social innovations that impact the environment .
Meanwhile , Barnes ’ academic interests culminated in a research project on the Olympia oyster , a West Coast native with a multitude of ecological benefits . Once a delicacy , its prevalence dwindled in the late 1800s due to overfishing and pollution . Yet Barnes was thrilled to learn that the mollusk had recently been seen to grow naturally at commercial aquafarms along the coast , and she anticipated a possible comeback for the once-forgotten oyster . Her excitement grew further when she spoke to local chefs and discovered a community enthusiastic about using more sustainable options from the sea .
These revelations on sustainable seafood would eventually collide with her love for algae in the form of New Wave Foods — a company on the forefront of sustainable seafood alternatives . In the fall of 2015 , Barnes partnered with engineer Michelle Wolf to launch the business , after being accepted to develop plant-based seafood alternatives at Indie Bio , the world ’ s largest biotech accelerator . The pair started off with an attempt to make an imitation shark fin , in efforts to curb the brutal and wasteful harvesting practices for that dish . But Barnes and her team soon realized that targeting a smaller animal could have a much bigger impact . “ Shrimp is the favorite ,” she says , “ Americans love shrimp , as do many other cultures . It ’ s the most consumed seafood on the
44 TRITON | SPRING 2018