TRAVERSE Issue 56 - October 2026 | Page 86

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who walk the Camino with heavy packs, often under the midday sun, tackling demanding ascents and descents over which our motorcycle instead glides effortlessly. Along the way, we meet pilgrims of every age: sunburnt, sometimes limping with blistered feet, yet all driven by the same inner motivation that has brought them this far.
Hornillos del Camino marks the entrance to the dirt roads, while Castrojeriz, watched over by the ruins of its ancient hilltop castle, still seems to guard the Camino. From Frómista begins a long, solitary gravel stretch that winds through the landscape for some twenty kilometres. Here we are fully immersed in the places and spirit of the Camino, as confirmed by
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