TRAVERSE Issue 56 - October 2026 | Page 178

TRAVERSE 178
pronounced. The region is scattered with towers, each with its own character, its own story.
At Dương Long Towers, the scale is striking. These are among the tallest Cham structures in Vietnam, their vertical lines drawing your gaze upward, their intricate carvings hinting at a sophistication that is often overlooked in broader narratives of Southeast Asian history.
Nearby, Phước Lộc Tower and Đồn Chàm Tower offer quieter encounters, places where you can sit in the shade and listen to the wind move through the grass, imagining what these sites once were, and what they have endured.
It is on the very outers edges of Quy Nhơn, too, that you encounter the Quang Trung Museum, a site that grounds the region’ s history in a more recent past. Dedicated to the Tây Sơn rebellion and the legacy of Emperor Quang Trung, the museum is both educational and deeply personal.
Walking through its grounds, you begin to understand the complexity of Vietnam’ s internal history, conflicts and movements that rarely feature in international discourse, yet have shaped the country in profound ways. The preserved artifacts, the reconstructed buildings, the quiet reverence of the space, all contribute to a sense that history here is not static. It is lived, remembered, and continually reinterpreted.
Beyond the city limits, the religious landscape offers a different kind of insight. At Lang Song Seminary, the influence of Catholicism becomes apparent. The architecture, the atmosphere, the quiet discipline of the space, all contrast sharply with the temples and pagodas that dominate much of the country.
This contrast is a recurring theme throughout Vietnam.
In small towns and rural areas, Christian churches appear unexpectedly, simple structures, often painted in soft pastels, standing alongside Buddhist temples and ancestral shrines. They are not anomalies, but integral parts of the cultural fabric.
From Quy Nhơn, the train line to Hội An feels almost gentle by comparison. Glimpses of the coastline provides soft reflection, and the towns along the way seem to exist in a slower, more deliberate rhythm. Hội An itself is often defined by its beauty, lanterns, river reflections, preserved architecture, but beyond the surface lies a network of temples and assembly halls that speak to
TRAVERSE 178