TRAVERSE 170
different situations depending on the route and regions we travelled through: in some cases we were able to use them, while in others we had to avoid them. For this reason, when travelling by motorcycle, it is essential to follow local road signs and carefully check the route selected by the navigation system. Amap, with its dedicated motorcycle mode, proved particularly useful in this respect.
Our overall impression was nevertheless that traffic is highly organised. Rather than speed, what challenges a foreign motorcyclist is the need to quickly understand local driving habits and adapt to a road system that is very different from those found in the West.
“ SPACE-AGE” FUEL STATIONS AND THE COST OF PETROL
One of the concerns of anyone undertaking a motorcycle journey through China for the first time is running out of fuel. Our experience, however, showed us that the country has a very extensive network of fuel stations, even on roads far from major population centres.
Fuel stations are often striking for their almost“ spaceage” appearance: modern, highly technological and exceptionally well-organised facilities where staff are attentive and helpful, assisting motorcyclists throughout the refuelling process.
Payment can normally be made using Alipay or WeChat, while the petrol price we encountered during our journeys was around 8.5 yuan per litre, with variations depending on the period and location.
In some areas, particularly in Xinjiang and the Tibetan autonomous prefectures, we also encountered stricter access procedures. Entering a fuel station may require registration using an identity document— a Chinese one, naturally— but in the end we were always able to refuel.
For us, the most important lesson from travelling through China by motorcycle is that the challenges are part of the adventure. The paperwork, technology, unfamiliar roads and different way of doing things can seem daunting before you arrive, but once you are on the road, China rewards the effort. From the ancient Silk Road to the mountains of Tibet and the modern cities that seem to belong to another century, the scale and diversity of the country are difficult to comprehend until you experience them from the saddle. China may still feel like an unknown destination to many motorcycle travellers, but our three journeys have shown us that, with the right preparation and a reliable local partner, it is a country that can be explored independently— and one that deserves a place on the adventure rider’ s map. ES & CZ
TRAVERSE 170