TRAVERSE Issue 56 - October 2026 | Page 145

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crossed the Los Libertadores Pass, travelling one of the world’ s most iconic roads, where endless hairpin bends unfolded against breathtakingly beautiful mountain scenery, and the peaks were still snow-capped despite the approaching summer. The Chilean capital welcomed us with its upsidedown world. It was December, schools were out for summer holidays, and everything was starting to get decorated for Christmas. The long, sunny days made the strings of lights and twinkling trees almost meaningless, but it was fun to be in a big city after weeks spent surrounded by nature.
On Ruta 5, we found the name Panamericana Sur, and in the distance, Chile’ s highest volcanic peaks emerged. The Pino Hachado Pass, despite its modest altitude, offered us a bit of a chill; this was clear proof that we had moved down in latitude and there the snow was already below 2000 metres.
We spent one of the cheapest and most sleepless nights of the trip. The village campground let us pitch a tent for a few dollars, but it was Saturday night and there was the big seasonal opening party. It wouldn’ t hurt much, we thought, but it would be fun! Except that after a fun band played live music, DJs spun until 5 a. m. in front of wild young people who were warming up from the harsh climate with plenty of alcohol.
The curves of the“ Camino de los 7 Lagos” were perhaps one of the most beautiful stretches of Ruta 40 in
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