TRAVERSE Issue 55 - August 2026 | Page 185

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acceptance of uncertainty, a reliance on knowledge passed down rather than written down.
Around Hue, the Perfume River flows with a deceptive gentleness past imperial tombs and pagodas, its surface often glassy, almost ceremonial. But even here, water has always been both aesthetic and practical. The Nguyễn emperors understood its value not just for beauty but for defence, transport, and agriculture. The river fed canals, moats, and rice fields, forming part of a broader hydraulic system that sustained both court and countryside.
Not far from Ngoc Lac, I came across one of the most quietly remarkable pieces of technology still in use: the traditional Vietnamese water wheel. Built almost entirely from bamboo, it stands improbably in the current, its broad paddles catching the flow of the river. As it turns, it lifts water in a series of simple containers, spilling it into a channel that feeds nearby fields. There is no engine, no electricity, no noise beyond the rhythmic creak of wet wood. These wheels have been used for generations, particularly in central Vietnam’ s smaller rivers and streams, and they
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