TRAVERSE Issue 55 - August 2026 | Page 141

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proud, their balconies draped in Bolivian flags and painted murals that blended Spanish influence with pre-Columbian motifs. The Whipala, the rainbow checkered flag of Andean indigenous identity, fluttered everywhere, a reminder that Bolivia’ s soul beats strongest among its native peoples.
On the steps of the church of
San Francisco, women in bowler hats sat weaving alpaca wool while children played between their skirts. The church itself, an imposing stone masterpiece adorned with naturalistic carvings, anchored the chaos around it. We chose not to enter museums; instead, we studied life in motion, letting the city be our classroom.
A few turns later, we stumbled into the Mercado de las Brujas, the Witches’ Market. Its stalls overflowed with herbs, talismans, dried llamas, and potions that promised love, luck, or revenge. Here, mysticism and Catholic faith intertwined seamlessly, remnants of a world where saints and spirits still share the same altar.
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