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of each other ' s eyes. After profuse apologies in both directions, Pele( a long way from Brazil and a decidedly un-Mexican name) informed us that the road ahead was closed because of Covid. I found that very odd, so when he had left, we carried on. Within five minutes we were riding with huge greenhouses of marijuana lining both sides of the road. This went on for at least ten minutes of riding and then once again we were in the open, dry desert roads again. From there we climbed into the coffee region where the dry terrain gave way to lush mountains with splashes of colourful flowers and frangipani trees and immense bougainvillea bushes and huge bamboo forests. Cabanas on Finca farms, dotted subtly against the mountainside can be rented by weary bikers who want a break from the heat, need a cool beer and an endless view to put their feet up too.
Four things you cannot afford to be allergic to in Mexico: being humbled about your riding, extremes of weather / natural disasters, curves and river crossings. Most of you reading this who have travelled in the ' developing ' world will remember the euphoria of riding a particularly difficult and dangerous road, only to be deflated instantly by a family of four, and a batch of chickens in bamboo cages, bouncing past on a biscuit wheeled 125. It will happen to you here... many times. The other three I will come back to but, first an observation.
I am not delving into the drug / safety / cartel thing, it is too clichéd and in six years in total and 68,000 kilometres, I have had no hassle. But you must be prepared for a lot of heavily armed military and heavily, totally tattooed people. Both can be a surprise. Being from Southern Africa, I am used to the guns but if you are a novice to ' developing ' countries, it can be a shock and a little intimidating on the first occasion.
One thing I have learned-extreme politeness works everywhere.
The greatest technique for having a smooth ride is to treat everyone with the upmost respect. If you are stopped by any official always turn off the engine, get off the bike, remove your helmet and extend your hand for a shake. It ' s amazing the effect a bit of manners will have. If they were considering extorting a bribe from you or giving you a hard
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