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burning continuously before altars. The silver bowls filled with water behind the golden butter lamps are not for fire safety but are offerings from pilgrims.
Lhasa’ s most famous landmark is the Potala Palace, the former winter residence of the Dalai Lama. Its towering 350-metre-wide façade is overwhelming in person. The White Palace housed administration, the ochre section education, and the Red Palace was reserved for religious purposes. Without frequent breaks to catch your breath on the 125 steps to the entrance, the tourist tour lasts barely an hour. The palace’ s political significance brings airportlike security, while its religious significance severely limits photo opportunities.
A literal and figurative highlight of any Tibet journey is the mountain of all mountains. The
Tibetans call it Qomolangma, with translations ranging from“ Mother of the Universe” to“ Goddess of the Land.” At the western end of our tour, I aim to tick another box from my youth, inspired by Reinhold Messner’ s books: standing at the foot of Everest and marvelling at its summit’ s snow plume. I chose China for this experience because Nepal requires several days of trekking for an Everest view. At the Gyatso La pass, a gate marks the entrance to the Mount Everest National Park at 5,220 metres. The following pass involves 108 bends. A viewpoint offers not only an impressive view of the winding road but also, in clear weather, a unique panorama of several of the planet’ s 14 eightthousanders: Makalu( 8,463 m), Lhotse( 8,516 m), Everest( 8,848 m), Cho Oyu( 8,201 m), and the“ lowest” Shishapangma( 8,012 m).
Until 2019, private vehicles could drive to Rongbuk Monastery, the world’ s highest monastery. Now, the tourist base camp, further inland is the climbers’ base camp, accessible only with a special permit, and has become a mass event for Han Chinese. Forty kilometres before the base camp, we must switch to a shuttle bus in Tashicun. Our destination is a four-star hotel near Rongbuk Monastery. We check into rooms with Everest views, enjoying sunset and sunrise vistas of the peak, along with an unspoiled view of the Milky Way … weather permitting. Restful sleep at 4,995 metres is a challenge, bringing to mind the Californian pop band Berlin’ s soundtrack hit from Top Gun: Take My Breath Away. AS
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