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Motorcycling in Tibet means: where roads end elsewhere, they’ re just beginning here. A glance at the map reveals that ascents or descents of 2,000 metres are barely worth mentioning. From Shangri-La at 3,300 metres, we descend steadily to the Mao Memorial before climbing the nearly 4,300-metre-high White Horse Pass into an equally rugged neighbouring valley. Over the next few days, we’ ll cross three more 4,000-metre passes and, in Markam, spend our first night at nearly 4,000 metres. At this altitude, the temperature doesn’ t reach double digits until 10 a. m. And then, for the first time, my GPS shows a five at the start of the altitude scale. From a river valley, essentially a long road construction site filled with truck convoys, we ascend curve by curve into ever-higher altitudes. First, a gurgling mountain stream accompanies the road; later, the panorama transitions to a vast highaltitude valley. Coniferous forests give way to shrubs, wildflowerstrewn meadows are replaced by lichens and mosses, and at the top, only bare rocks remain. Just before the summit of the Dongda La pass, I give myself a pat on the back. Not just for the altitude of 5,000 metres but also for ticking off a bucket-list item: reaching 5,000 metres on a motorbike.
Thousands of colourful prayer flags flutter in the cold wind, making conversation nearly impossible. Two numbers and some Chinese characters are inscribed on the stone pyramid marking the pass: 5,130 metres above sea level. The three high steps leading to an Instagramworthy photo spot are a challenge due to the thin air, where only 60 per cent of sea-level oxygen remains. Every step is deliberate to avoid running out of breath after a few metres.
Route 318 is the most beautiful highway in China, akin to America’ s
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