TRAVERSE 85
TRAVEL- NEPAL
MICHAEL BURTON
WHERE THE WIND REMEMBERS
With the Forgotten Kingdom of Upper Mustang only opened to the public in 1991, and with a hefty entry price of USD $ 500, the area hasn’ t undergone the intense development seen in India. Influenced by Tibetan culture, its centuries of isolation have kept the lifestyle, heritage, and traditions uncorrupted. An interesting fact: polyandry, a form of marriage where all the brothers in a family share the same wife, is still a common practice throughout the Upper Mustang Kingdom. Now that’ s true brotherly love.
But times are changing in this remote corner of the Himalayas as the Chinese work their way down the plateau in search of minerals, building roads to open trade routes to Kathmandu and India.
The call went out for riders with serious off-road skills. This wasn’ t going to be a gentle jaunt on big adventure bikes through pretty forests. Nepal is trekking territory, the domain of gaudy Mahindra four-wheel drives in all conditions and ages, deep valleys, rocky river crossings, dusty ascents, and narrow unsealed roads with drop-offs further than imagination allows. Food and accommodation options were limited, and a hot shower might be a luxury at the end of the day.
Qualifications were submitted, ride notes and a rough route map published, and T & Cs listed. On the recommendation of MLA regular Steve May, the details were emailed to a group of middle-aged riders known collectively by the acronym MMLC, possibly standing for“ Mildura Mid-Life Crises.” The power players of the group, Mr Personality Greg Christensen and local Kenworth dealer Glenn Leake, quickly rounded up a posse of nine. That left five spots. Perth riders Mick“ Goldie” Golden and Nev Kelly, both MLA veterans, and Joe Staudt,
TRAVERSE 85