TRAVERSE 94
my bike on the Vietnamese side, excited Vietnam by foot, walked 500 metres to the Laos border control, entered Laos, walked to the opposite side of the border crossing, exited Laos, walked 500 metres back to the Vietnamese border where I was then stamped into the country with a thirty day visa.
Two days later I joined Sebastian at his homestay in Yen Bai, 150 kilometres northwest of Hanoi. Riding through a village on my way back, I slowed down for a small herd of cattle. As I was passing them a calf decided to sprint out right in front of me. Trying to avoid hitting the calf, I went down hard on the tarmac. It resulted in two broken mirrors, a broken clutch lever and some minor injuries on my shoulder and knee.
Within seconds I had people helping me to get the bike, and me, back up again. I was offered a cold Coke and a chair to sit on. A roadside workshop took care of the mirrors and the clutch lever, while I was left to lick my own wounds.
Returning four or five days later to the homestay where Sebastian was waiting, my situation hadn’ t changed, I was still feeling quite unwell and hadn ' t regained my appetite, I realised something had to be done, quickly.
The owner of the homestay, a Vietnamese who had lived 40 years in Canada and spoke fluent English, took me to the local clinic, where I went through a complete check-up and was diagnosed with food poisoning. They gave me a prescription, much of which was for baby food, and suggested I return to Denmark as soon as possible. I decided to see the next couple of days through and let the medication work, but to no avail.
In my desperation I called Jonny from Style Motorcycles and explained the situation. He told me to get myself to the French Hospital in
Hanoi immediately. It would cost, but they would sort me out quickly, he said.
With my last bit of energy, I climbed on the bike and drove the 150 kilometres to the French Hospital in Hanoi. They diagnosed me with severe stomach infection, fatigue, and dehydration. I was admitted immediately, put on a drip and medication, by the end of the day I was able to eat my first meal in almost ten days.
Three days later, and $ 3,000 lighter, I walked out of the hospital room, and into the basement parking area where my faithful XR150 was waiting patiently. The remaining 2 weeks of my trip could start.
It was absolutely wonderful being back on the bike, not least because it coincided with a drop in temperature from about thirty-eight degrees to twenty-eight. Along the 1,600-kilometre return trip to Ho Chi Minh City, I visited three UNESCO World Heritage sites; the ancient
Complex of Hue Monuments, My Son Sanctuary and Phong Nha Caves at Ke Bang national park. I also spent some relaxing days in the seaside resorts of Da Nang, Quy Nhon, Nha Trang and Mui Né.
Returning the bike to Style Motorbikes, with a heavy heart, my deposit and passport, which had been kept by Style while I was on the road was returned to me. Handing me my passport, Binh from Style asked me how old I was.
“ As a matter of fact,” I said to him.“ I am turning 70 this very day.”
He looked at me with open mouth, ripped open the fridge door and pulled out beers for all of us.“ Let ´ s celebrate,” he said. Presented with a Style T-shirt with the wording“ I survived Vietnam traffic”.
“ Well, almost,” I smiled fondly at the thought of Vietnam. JLL
TRAVERSE 94