TRAVERSE Issue 50 - October 2025 | Page 16

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out how irrigation channels are engineered from cousins’ and neighbours’ labour.
If your heart wants remoteness, the Chapursan Valley is the furthest reach before the Wakhan corridor of Afghanistan and offers eyes-on views of Pamirstyle peaks and a Wakhi culture that’ s shaped by cross-border grazing patterns and ancient trade. Shimshal, sometimes called the“ valley of glaciers”, literally touches on historic routes towards China and the Pamirs. These are places where your permit status matters, where weather or diplomatic realities can close a road, and where a committed local fixer( or a guided tour) keeps you legal and safe. The Khunjerab Pass, the political boundary with China, is a high, sometimes snow-dusted checkpoint where the road becomes the China – Pakistan Economic Corridor’ s most symbolic link. Travel into these borderlands respectfully and with local guidance; the terrain is majestic but politically sensitive.
Chilas sits along the Karakoram Highway and is among the practical stopping points for riders heading north. It’ s also an area recently reminded of nature’ s volatility: heavy monsoon rains and glacial floods have affected Chilas and nearby districts in recent seasons, showing how climate, development and tourism are entwined. Roads can wash away in minutes; entire communities have been temporarily displaced by sudden floods. That makes flexible itineraries, helpline numbers, and an ability to re-route vital. Consider the mountains not just as scenery but as systems reacting to a warming planet.
This region’ s true riches are people. Balti elders, Wakhi hosts, Hunza shopkeepers, hospitality here isn’ t a tourist product, it’ s an ethic. Expect invitations to tea and questions about your family. Language is patchwork: Urdu
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