TRAVERSE 148
molten rock.
The malpaís, the land of lava and ash, ends just to the south at the Salinas de Janubio, which surround the salt lagoon that formed during the 1730 eruption. What were once fields of wheat and corn were transformed in 1895 into a vast geometric patchwork of salt pans, populated by microscopic crustaceans and algae that nourish migrating wildlife, turning the water a characteristic red colour. Here, more than anywhere else, the concept of biosphere is crystal clear.
The town of Playa Blanca began to light up as the sun set, but we were not yet ready for the chaos and concrete. A quick top-up at the gas station for the KLE, and we headed down the long dirt road leading to the southernmost point of the island.
After so much asphalt, the thrill of off-roading took over as we quickly returned to the wildest part of the island, an arid and rugged landscape crisscrossed only by a gravel strip leading to Playa de Papagayo, a small sandy cove sheltered by two promontories that soften the ocean’ s waves. We enjoyed the fiery red sunset, barefoot on the cool sand, before toasting the island with a mojito at the little beachside café.
The return to Puerto del Carmen was as shocking as it was inevitable. We dropped off the motorcycle, feeling a little melancholic, and decided to walk back to the Nautilus. The restaurants were buzzing, and the streets were filled with people from all over. The anxiety of being stuck in a tourist trap had disappeared, and strolling the streets felt like a return to civilisation. Manrique’ s cultural legacy had ensured that in just ten minutes, you can discover a fascinating land inhabited by serene people who, with patience and ingenuity, have learned to live in respectful harmony with a harsh yet fertile nature. When we’ d first landed, we didn’ t think we’ d spend our entire time on a motorcycle, but the island’ s roads and landscapes captivated us, making us forget the usual Canarian tourist routine. It’ s a small island, but it has many wonders to discover, and sooner or later, we’ ll return to lose ourselves here, just a stone ' s throw from civilisation. Maybe next time, we’ ll remember to get off the bike and take a swim. AF & AR
TRAVERSE 148