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Corona volcano reached the coast, and the large amounts of steam generated by the contact with water solidified the rock into three giant caverns, which Manrique’ s visionary genius transformed into public spaces. A lush botanical garden leads down to the underground lake, home to an endemic species of albino crabs. From here, through a restaurant, one can access a white artificial pool, which leads to the huge, impressive auditorium set up in the largest jameo. The only visible structure from the road is the small educational centre on volcanology and seismology, very informative and well-designed.
The LZ-10, which runs along the coast to the Mirador del Río, wound gently through patches of cultivated green, sheltered from the cold ocean wind by the long cliffs of the western coast. Beyond the mountains lay the Caleta de Famara, the long beach created by the erosion of the promontory by the ocean, which here expressed all its power, making it one of the most beloved spots by surfers worldwide. The Mirador was closed, but it didn’ t matter: the view of the island of La Graciosa in the golden ocean at sunset was a worthy consolation.
It was time for an aperitif, and we decided to follow the recommendation from Leda, the manager of the Nautilus Hotel. We headed to Punta Mujeres, on the island’ s northeastern coast, where we found the exact opposite of a tourist trap.
The Bar La Piscina, frequented only by locals, was buzzing due to the highly anticipated El Clásico Barcelona-Real Madrid derby, and the atmosphere was cheerfully heated. As the locals teased each other without rest, we enjoyed a beer with Aquilino, a ceramicist considered one of the island’ s prominent figures. According to him, the village got its name because it was once populated solely by women, as the men, fishermen all, were always out at sea. The bar surely owes its name to the natural pool in front of it, where the locals take a late-night dip, enjoying the heat accumulated in the water throughout the day. Some people played cards, using stones and fruit pits as chips. It didn’ t take long to feel right at home, and so, between dozens of tacos with local fish, the beer going down easily along with lively chatter in fast-paced Spanish that’ s not always easy to follow.
The worries of the first day quickly disappeared after just a few kilometres; leaving the cities of Puerto del Carmen and Arrecife behind, you’ ll find yourself out of the tourist vortex, surrounded by a peaceful countryside interrupted by
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