TRAVERSE 19
Indigenous Lands and Living Histories
Crossing into the Northwest Territories, the Dempster enters the traditional territories of the Tetlit Gwich’ in and Inuvialuit peoples. In Fort McPherson, a Gwich’ in community on the banks of the Peel River, visitors encounter a culture that has survived for millennia in one of the world’ s most extreme environments. The town is known historically for the tragic fate of the“ Lost Patrol,” a Royal Canadian Mounted Police expedition that perished here in 1911 after losing their way in winter.
But the deeper stories are those told by local elders, stories of caribou migrations, river travel, and survival in an increasingly unpredictable climate. Craft markets in Fort McPherson offer handmade moosehide mittens, intricate beadwork, and traditional garments that reflect both skill and identity.
It was a similar encounter that saw a visit to the nearby community of Midway Lake. A friendly family were keen to share their knowledge of the lands and their cultures. We discovered that the creation of the Dempster had brought both connection and disruption as riverside communities were moved on to neighbouring lands.
TRAVERSE 19