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be hours, or days, away.
Solitude and Challenge
Midway to the Arctic lies Eagle Plains, a remote outpost with fuel, food, and a sparse motel. It’ s a critical stop for motorcyclists: the last service station before the Northwest Territories. The ride from Dawson to Eagle Plains, roughly 400-kilometres, is one of the Dempster’ s most gruelling sections, especially in rain, when the road surface becomes slick and visibility can vanish into cloudbanks. Yet, as we discovered, perfect weather provides what is perhaps the easiest section of the Dempster, with fast open tracks, wide vistas, and great traction. It’ s testament to how quickly the conditions can change on the Dempster.
Riders report long stretches without seeing another vehicle. The silence is complete, broken only by the sound of wind and the occasional call of ravens or the distant thrum of approaching transport trucks or the occasional traveller. This isolation, while intimidating, is also what draws many to the Dempster; the rare opportunity to disconnect entirely and move through a landscape on nature’ s terms.
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