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attention. Subjugated? Not in my experience …
I took the long way back to Medan, and the flight to Singapore, through the delightfully named Siborongborong, Balige and Parapat – which all reminded me of the first times we went to Bali, back in the eighties. Everybody, everywhere, all at once- but most not touting for business or favours at every corner. Utterly charming.
During the three and a half weeks I was there, I ate solely at roadside stalls with no refrigeration, slightly clean dishes, plastic stools, wooden tables, and more raw food handling( without gloves) than a busy day at the Queen Victoria market. I never had the teeniest twinge in my guts. When I got back to Medan, I treated myself to a proper sit-down meal at Pappa Rich, a chain restaurant near the airport. You guessed it – ten hours talking closely into the porcelain telephone followed.
But as a place to ride, Sumatra must be right up there. It is raw, welcoming, has brilliant roads, outrageously up-for-it riders, and drivers, and is so consistently warm that you don’ t mind if it does rain.
The capitals are a bit mucky, like most Indonesian cities, but as soon as you are out in the country it is brilliant.
Just be careful where you go. A woman at one hotel heard we were going through Medan and warned us not to stop for anything.
“ Medan is the most outlaw place in Indonesia,” she gasped.“ If they see you are foreigners, they will rob you for sure!”
So maybe wear a balaclava if you do go. Don’ t make too many rigid plans, just go anyway... JT
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