TRAVERSE Issue 48 - June 2025 | Page 147

Thanks to the efforts of the American biologist Alan Robinowitz the area is one of the largest jaguar reserves on the continent. We are not so lucky to spot the big cat but we did spend three days walking in the mountains of the tropical forest among the screams of the monkeys and the many species of birds that live here; without comfort or connection except that with nature.
The five hundred and sixty kilometres that separated us from the beautiful Flores in Guatemala, overlooking Lake Petèn Itzà, passed quickly and contrasted the bureaucratic slowness of the borders that we had now learned to know and faced without too much bad mood. Tikal is the most famous and spectacular archaeological site in Guatemala and to visit it we relied on the quiet El Remate where we enjoyed the sparkle of the lake during one of our many dawn wakeups. The national park surrounded the high towers that are part of the largest ruined city left to us by the Maya. The hill that rises above the marshy area and the abundance of flint were fundamental for the choice of this place in 700 BC for the foundation of this ancient city.
The shape and dimensions of the Gran Plaza date back to 250 AD and the work of cleaning from trees and