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divided us into groups of three or four and beckoned us to follow them into their homes . Each lady would bring out her latest creations for us to consider . I suppose it was possible to feel trapped and goaded into buying something . But I was humbled to be allowed to enter the only private sanctuary they could call their own , and nosy around .
There was a small shelf piled high with hand-made bracelets and lovingly painted straw llamas . The low reed bench along the back wall just fit my partner , myself , and a young backpacker . At the far end was a single mattress , which our lady , Nayra , shared with her husband and their daughter of no more than 4 years old . The girl was sitting on the striped blankets in her fluffy pink Minnie-Mouse hoodie , munching sweeties and absorbing our strangeness with curious brown eyes .
I looked up to the roof , where dyed reeds and wool craft supplies had been squeezed under the rafters . Black plastic sheeting covered the roof from underneath . Nayra followed my gaze and fearing that it might take away from the authenticity of this reed home , she apologised “ It ’ s for the rain !” I didn ’ t mind at all . In fact , having camped in our leaky tent and knowing all too well how miserable such an existence could be , I was glad that she had it .
With no space left for her inside , Nayra knelt in the entrance , bringing out her crafts and displaying them in the dim light of the small window . Normally I don ’ t buy much since space in my motorcycle luggage is limited . But I was determined to support this family ; and her handiwork was gorgeous . There were wall hangs , runners and pillowcases , all hand woven and embroidered depicting life on the islands and local lore . Once again , the lovers on the ‘ Ferrari ’ -boat featured , as did Pachamama ( mother earth ) and the gods of sun and rain .
The wall hangs were the most expensive because they take an entire month to make . But they were also the most beautiful . My partner and I chose a grey one with the mythical gods stitched in warm yellows and greens . Nayra was over the moon . Of course she was happy about the lucrative sale . But I also got the feeling that she was ecstatic that we loved her work so much . Having tried to sell my own art in the past , I know how elating it feels when someone enjoys your creations enough to buy them ; and in her case , her living depends on it .
On the way out , she let all of us choose a bracelet or a key ring . And then she surprised me with a huge , genuinely warm hug goodbye . ( I was the only one to receive it , as
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