TRAVERSE Issue 46 - February 2025 | Page 118

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true . After all , they did have long , purpose-made saws , designed to cut large blocks of reedbed .
Island life is very simple , but also really tough . The never-ending need to replenish reeds , rebuild huts , launder clothes by hand and fish for sustenance , take up most of waking life . The relentless damp can make the cool of the high altitude miserable very quickly , and there is not much in terms of entertainment or distractions . The children attend primary school on the islands but go to the mainland for secondary school and university . It is not surprising then , that some prefer the opportunities on land and choose to build a life there .
Most islanders now have wooden boats powered by motors , or small rowing boats . But they do still build traditional twin-hulled reed boats with a wooden central double deck and dragon figureheads . These are painted in bright yellow , red , and green , preserving the reeds as long as possible . “ It is the Ferrari of Uros boats ,” our man boasts . “ There are no cinemas here , so if you want to go on a date , you go for a romantic boat trip .” There was a reminiscent glint in his eye when he said this , as if harbouring fond memories of his own courtship .
Of course , life requires resources beyond what the lake can provide , and the women of the islands have always made crafts to exchange for things like pantry basics , school supplies and medicines . Since bartering is no longer an option , the island people now need to earn cold , hard cash . As we glanced over our shoulders to the craft stalls from which the other islanders had removed the protective blankets while we were listening , the leader explained that each boat load of visitors is deposited at a different island according to an agreed schedule , so that tourist dollars are fairly shared , and life isn ’ t interrupted too often .
To me this didn ’ t feel like hard sales tactics , but rather a humble explanation and perhaps even a plea to buy things here directly , rather than at the trinket stalls in town , or even worse , at the last minute at the airport .
He showed us some of the crafts . There were delicate dream catchers , hand woven wall hangs , embroidered pillowcases and mini versions of llamas and ‘ Ferrari ’ - boats made from reeds . The most fascinating was the hand-painted magic clay jug . The man poured water in the bottom , then , without applying any lid or closure , turned it upright . Not a single drop spilled . But when he tilted it , a happy stream poured out of the spout !
When he finished , the women
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