TRAVERSE 7
EDITORIAL
TRAVERSE :
Pamir Poos !
I
’ d just shat myself for the third time , not metaphorically , no , this was the real deal , warm and wet in my RST pants . The indignity had long since left my body , along with everything else over the past week . I had the Pamir Poos , a severe case of illness brought on by the high altitudes of the Pamir Highway . I ’ d had altitude sickness once before , while on a ride in Nepal , it had paled in comparison to what was now happening . I ’ d hoped that death would be both heroic and swift , it seemed to be neither .
The tell-tale signs had started earlier , slight headache , breathlessness , lethargy , then came the nausea , stomach pains , vomiting , and oh God , the poos . The usual symptoms generally last one to four days , I had reached seven and was praying that we would soon be at , or even below sea level .
In the middle of nowhere , without a decent toilet , I looked at our guides . I ’ d ridden with them before and know their sense of human . They were laughing at me , while showing a level of concern . If only I ’ d listened to their advice in the first place … take aspirin , twice a day . Max , Alex , I am terribly sorry … you can stop laughing now .
The upside is , that often my place of relief had some of the most spectacular views I have ever seen , the Pamir Highway is undoubtably one of the world ' s greatest roads to ride . Read on for more central Asian adventures in this issue as well as inspiring rides from Canada , India , Europe , and Venezuela … and I promise , no more talk of the Pamir Poos .
Leigh
TRAVERSE 7