TRAVERSE 113
TRAVEL - UZBEKISTAN
LEIGH WILKINS
A CROSSROADS OF CULTURES
Samarkand was to be our last stop in an all too brief ride through a country that is as mysterious as its name . We ’ d made our way along most main roads from the Kyrgyzstan city of Osh , crossing the border at the oddly named Zhany-Turm before reaching the Uzbek town of Ko ’ rpa . This meant being thrown in the deep end of a torrent of traffic that raced to who knows where , the dangers apparent when considering that a motorcycle is considered uncouth and something that larger vehicles should deal with .
The road to Kokand had presented a unique perspective of Uzbek life , roadside industries that fed similar roadside markets were abundant . Breads , fish , melons , plentiful to the point of being over supplied . I wondered how anyone could make a living with such competition , the realisation quickly came that there were no significant challenges for prices as everyone worked together to ensure a fare deal for everyone , even the consumer . Somewhere in the back of my mind I wondered if this was a relic of a Communist past and whether it was a better system than screwing all for a slight profit . The market atmosphere was welcoming , everyone keen to show the visitors how everything worked and to try samples of the goods , an interaction with local people that seemed genuinely pleased with their lot . My travelling companions bemused that when asked where I was from the response was almost always , “ ah , kangaroo ”. A similar experience when passports were shown to soldiers and border patrols .
Kokand gave a glimpse into urban life for the people of Uzbekistan . A quarter of a million inhabitants meant it was similar in size to the Australian city where I was raised yet it felt hugely different , more traditional , and yet somehow much
TRAVERSE 113