TRAVERSE Issue 43 - August 2024 | Page 131

TRAVERSE 131

TRAVEL - NEW ZEALAND

LEIGH WILKINS

GREETED BY GOLLUM

Irony came to mind when discovering that one of the highest mountains passes in New Zealand is indeed one of the easiest , yet it didn ’ t disappoint and could easily be regarded as one of the world ’ s best motorcycle roads .

We ’ d started the day earlier , leaving behind the picturesque vistas of Lake Brunner , our pub accommodation , which had included far too many Spicy Margaritas ’ the night before , that overlooked the lake from the shore side town of Moana .
A permanent population of just seventy people gives Moana an isolated feel yet the plentiful housing along the banks of the lake suggested otherwise , I could only assume that these dwellings were for short term rental or private holiday homes for people further afield . The pub had a great outlook , a balcony that stretched around the street side of the property and took in the views .
The interior offered a warm , almost hunting lodge feel to it , plenty of deer heads adorned the walls , not something I understand the fascination with , and it was something that became a common theme throughout New Zealand ’ s south island .
Moana wouldn ’ t exist if not for the train passing by . Conceived in the late nineteenth century , it was originally nothing more than a flag station , essentially only a stop for the train if a passenger requested it . It quickly grew into a goods platform as nearby mills sought a cost-effective way to transport the felled timber , a community quickly took shape and Moana became a town . Today the station and platforms are heritage listed as the only examples of this style of building in the country .
Leaving early , we took a road that followed the railway line south , amazing we ’ d heard trains the previous day and even earlier
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