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red powder , we joined the procession and tried to keep up with the dancers as we were piped through the streets to our inn for the night !
Between the offroad riding , suspension bridges and personal carnival – it had been a hell of a day ! After a hearty dinner of Dahl Bhat ( curry , steamed rice , lentils , and dal – “ Dahl Bhat Power , 24 hour ”) it was time for bed . As we walked up the stairs to our rooms , Bijay warned us that the “ real ” offroad riding would commence tomorrow . It seemed that today was just a warm-up !
After sleeping like babies , we were up and out for around 9am , heading towards the high-altitude mountain village of Kalopani . The steadily ascending mountainside tracks to Kalopani were where the real offroad riding began . It was a rutty , dusty drag of loose rubble flanked by treacherous drops , it soon sharpened everyone ’ s focus . The technical aspect of the ride had dialled up from a 4 to a 10 in the space of a few kilometres and now there was no room for error .
As we gingerly picked our way through mountain passes that were equally beautiful and deadly , we knew we weren ’ t in Kansas anymore . This was the “ real ” offroad riding that Bijay had been talking about as we slunk off to bed the night before – and it was no joke .
After a couple of hours of slow progress , the trail began to turn into tarmac , and we managed to get out of second gear for the first time that afternoon . We picked up the pace and could begin to focus on the stunning mountain scenery without the constant fear of imminent death , should we make a mistake . The scenery was bewitching . Alpine passes that would make the Swiss Alps blush . The route took us by waterfalls , snowcapped mountains , valleys , and gorges – all worthy of their own place on the front of a postcard . As we continued to climb higher and deeper into the Annapurna range , the temperature started to noticeably drop .
We pushed on through the shadows of the mountain range and climbed higher and higher . As the sun began to dip , the temperature started to get chilly and as we rolled into Kalopani , it was outright cold . Although the temperature was cold , the welcome in Kalopani was very warm . Bijay had again arranged for the local people that lived in Kalopani to come and meet us in full traditional dress . We met around twenty-five of the local people who gifted us marigold necklaces , marked us with red powder and then invited us over to a traditional building made in the local architectural style for some piping hot cups of tea , which were very much appreciated . We went on a tour of the traditional building and spent some time drinking tea and eating biscuits with the locals – a priceless experience ! By the time we checked into our hotel , grabbed a shower , and got changed , the temperature was around freezing . We layered up and hit the local pub for a few drinks . The pub was lovely and warm , with heaters placed under the tables . Outside , there was a fire going in an oil drum – and we noticed our support crew huddled around it having a chat , smoking cigarettes , and drinking Raksi , the local Nepali spirit that sits somewhere between moonshine and sake . We joined the guys around the fire , had a few drinks of Raksi with them and then it was time for bed . Everyone slept fully clothed in layers that night as the temperature was sub-zero .
Bijay had advised us to get up the next morning to catch the sunrise , which we did , and what a sight it was . After a freezing night of poor sleep , feeling the suns warming rays and seeing it light up the mountain town was special . We snapped the obligatory pictures , wolfed down
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