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than that of Australia ’ s most southern state , Tasmania . We had reached 45 degrees south , only South Americas Patagonia was further below us without counting Antarctica . It was cold and the mountains gave a hint as to why . The nearby peaks of the Saint Marys and Hawkdun Ranges had had a sprinkling of snow overnight , within weeks the light dusting would be much heavier and reaching lower altitudes . Winter was coming and a much grippier road surface would be needed . Gravel is king in this part of the world .
The beauty of the alpine sights did little to appease the rattling that had now become a roar , a landslide within my head , a stone-faced grey gremlin that wanted me gone . It was a battle I felt sure I would lose , not beaten by an impossibly rutted track , a stone pathway similar to that of a Himalayan village , or a
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