TRAVERSE 32
belonging and control of territory . There ’ s not a clear limit within knowledge of roots and refusal of cultural advance . This land has to be accepted like it is .
The last stage , in the heart of the mountain , is necessary for me to understand how times have changed , although things remain .
From Ardore , on the Ionian coast , we rose up straight to the centre of the region , crossing all possible landscapes from dry valley to the dark forest . The Cross of Zervó appears in the shadowy green , planted in a crossroad among
chestnuts . His wooden Jesus , just covered by a small roof , became famous when Angela Casella went there to pray , asking for solidarity from Calabrian women and the liberation of her son Cesare , kidnapped in the north and kept in Aspromonte for two years .
Angela ’ s resounding demonstration , a series of visits to Calabrian villages where she chained herself to structures in the square and spoke of the family ’ s plight saw Cesare released after almost two years in captivity with only a small amount of the ransom paid .
Her actions helped put a stop the kidnapping industry . She became a national hero , Mamma Coraggio .
The Christ still stands , protected by a low iron fence . Instead of the military checkpoint there ’ s a stall selling cheese , sausage , and honey . I chat with the seller who , cracking a smile , asks me “ where are we from and why are we there ?”. A spark of curiosity lights in his eyes when I tell him my family name . AF
TRAVERSE 32