TRAVERSE 27
TRAVEL FEATURE - KYRGYZSTAN LEIGH WILKINS
A GREAT ROAD AMIDST THE FOG OF MOONSHINE
It seems ironic that a country I was convinced had a severe lack of motorcycling culture , one where two wheels is seen as a sign of poverty , replied with a road that could only be considered one of the true greats for two wheels . A road seldom travelled that all motorcyclists need to enjoy and yet hopefully will remain somewhat of a secret as a Kyrgyz national treasure .
A night in the southern Kyrgyzstan city of Osh became one of traditional wood fire cooked foods , accompanied with homemade wines that could rival anything from the Worlds great wine regions . Of course , this led to a batch of moonshine being brought out , something that had the colouring of kerosene and a taste to match .
“ Sip slow ,” I ’ d been told by my cognac swilling Russian friends , I should ’ ve listened . The next day a veil of death was smothering any want to live from my very existence .
My travelling companions had left me to die amongst the gardens of our hotel . A few hours sleep I ’ d promised our backup driver , Max , would be all that was needed to see me right . He ’ d rolled his eyes in distrust .
Knowing I would be quicker on the open roads Max pointed me in the direction of Jalal-Abad , as I wobbled my way out of Osh , apparently I couldn ’ t get lost . Max wasn ’ t nursing a head that housed an out of tune symphony attempting an Iron Maiden epic . My head hurt , my stomach more so , and my sense of direction was somewhat nonexistent . I wasn ’ t lost , I was trying to reach China .
Off the main road and with a phone devoid of power I sat in the shade and waited , not for someone to approach , but rather for my head to explode . I prayed that it would explode , then the selfinflicted suffering would cease . Not
TRAVERSE 27