TRAVERSE Issue 37 - August 2023 | Page 134

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along the lake shore . Here it was after a few attempts , just under the main road there ’ s a path leading to a small house ; there was a fountain , a wooden table and a couple of chairs . A family , setting camp , invited us to stay , we were happy to accept . We like to have company . We quickly set up the tent and , before cooking , we were able to have a swim under a sky become increasingly red , while a lazy moon went to sleep early making way to a sparkling Milky Way . After the uncomfortable accommodation of the night before , we could finally enjoy our million stars tent with a natural pool .
Real luxury is not only diving into the water as soon as the sun warms your tent , but also the ability to wash yourself without the need of soap ; the water of Van Lake is highly alkaline , there ’ s a high concentration of lye , and that ’ s why it itches the skin . Its salinity provides a safe habitat for only a few species of fish , and for the same reason , it ’ s not drinkable nor can be used for agriculture .
A legend talks about a monster living in the lake , a sort of Turkish Nessie , but reality is more thrilling . Researchers found at the bottom of the lake groups of stalagmites and the ruins of a fortification from the time of Kingdom of Urartu , the arch enemy of the Assyrian Empire , which dominated this region between 9th and 6th century B . C . All the area is characterised by signs of volcanic activity made more understandable once you leave the lake , going along the D-975 highway which runs north following the Iranian border through the lava pit of Tendürek Dağı .
This is a hot territory not only for volcanoes , but we ’ re also now in the heart of Kurdistan region whose people , mainly divided among Turkey , Iran , Iraq , and Syria , is claiming the recognition of its own language and identity in a long-lasting direct fight against government . This endless battle ,
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