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from marauders and the weather . Finally becoming meditation chambers during the 15th century . The caves are interconnected by linking tunnels that form walkways between rooms and household complexes . It ’ s otherworldly , almost Hobitonian , mysterious and fascinating .
It now made sense why permits are required to enter this region , one that is heavily policed at the internal border crossing in Jomsom . This is a sensitive region , artifacts are continually being discovered by the archaeological community who know that the caves predate Buddhism in the region and yet many of the remains found display evidence that the people were performing sky burials , a practise of the regions Buddhist community still undertaken to this day where a deceased is cut into fine pieces and placed on a mountain or hill to be taken by the vultures .
More recently caves containing paintings have been discovered . Believed to be between 600 and 1000 years old the paintings depict the life of Buddha . The paintings are so unique that they also display Indian life and not that of Tibet . Even the few families that still dwell in the caves can ’ t explain the history .
A juxtaposition that is changing the very fabric of the Upper Mustang . The people are being drawn from their heavily religious , traditional lifestyle to a modern world where intrepid travellers wear unnatural fabrics and carry a plethora of electronic devices , a world where communication is done by something called social media . Existence is one of localised traditions that revolved around Buddhism and the beliefs of the Tibetan people . Here in the Upper Mustang the people are more akin to those across the border in Chinese controlled Tibet than those in lower reaches of Nepal .
The people of the region , mainly the Loba , are desperately clinging to their world . Their faith and traditions are far more important than an Instagram like from someone they have never met . Their reluctance to move into a fast paced , almost antisocial existence is commendable , and yet , as we take in what we are seeing I feel that this is an existence that will eventually succumb to the pressures of China in the north and greater Nepal in the south .
Khata , a traditional silk scarf , is presented along with prayers and well wishes as we depart our guesthouse . The Khata is a Tibetan gift of appreciation to the weary traveller , a way of protecting on the journey . A perfect way to remember the people of Lo Manthang and the rich cultural experience it provided … and my altitude sickness had been cured . LW
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