TRAVERSE Issue 36 - June 2023 | Page 167

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and the meat .
“ Buff ,” the woman pointed . The meat was ‘ buff ’ the Nepali and Indian name for buffalo meat , it made sense , although none of us had noticed buffalo anywhere on our journey . A sneaky way of eating beef ? We dared not question .
The thukpa was delicious to the point of inducing an addiction in me . Beef noodle soup is now my drug of choice , regardless of where I am in the world . Our host smiled sweetly as if acknowledging that she ’ d made a handful of westerners extremely happy . We all gorged ourselves of the delicious meal .
Despite an early night , and plenty of paracetamol and water , the drumming in my head had returned and far worse than the day before . We were riding to the Chinese border
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