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everywhere in Thailand . In a small village called Ban Nam Phi , in the northwest of the country , we took a wrong road and had to stop before the sunset in the garden of a house which looked abandoned . Pitching our tent between palms and cooking under the wooden gazebo where in the morning came the owner , happily surprised , and offering us biscuits and candies .
A great resource for overlanders in Thailand is represented by the substantial number of rest areas at the entrance of almost all main towns . These are garden areas , equipped with clean bathrooms and showers , grills , and all that is needed , where the road authority keeps its vehicles . We spent one night chatting , with no language in common , with the keeper of rest areas family . We tasted his rice whisky , and everybody get drunk within two hours . Sometimes , to fight the heat of the day , we had a
shower in a gas station or a swim in a river . Overall , it was a full month of crazy rides , alternating speedy runs on the perfect asphalt to slow and dusty dirt tracks .
We spent most of our time in Thailand riding mostly through the north , visiting Karen villages that are well signed . These refugee people are renowned for the next extending undertaken by their women . A traditional practise that sees the necks elongated by the addition of brass rings ; more being added as the years pass by . It ’ s a tradition being lost to a modern world where boybands and movie stars ’ images are considered more important .
To enter these villages a ticket is required with part of the money going to the government . The local people of the villages , like the one we visited , earn an income from selling pieces of traditional jewellery made on site . Postcards are also sold that feature images of their women in traditional dress completing traditional activities . These women were right in front of us exploring the modern world on mobile phones .
Similar businesses are run by the Akha near Laos border , here the women dress in weird hats made of old French coins , their legs covered in thick canvas leggings . We couldn ’ t understand if it were pride of their traditions or mere business when a woman invited us into her house , trying to sell something . At first , we turned our nose for this tradition ’ s marketing , but quickly we understood it ’ s an effective way to live off without giving in to western standards . That ’ s sustainable tourism !
Thailand has many facets , many dark , most bright . Thailand is a heaven on Earth , easily found if you look in the right direction and ask no questions . AF
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