creeping forward with an eery creak and groan , punctuated frequently by what sounds like gunshots . Giant wedges of ice fall from the glacial face adding to the many lakes and fjords . Astonishingly many of the glaciers are just above sea level , some flowing toward the Pacific Ocean .
Riding to within a few hundred metres of the Puerto Moreno glacier is an experience not lost on anyone , the two of us quickly realise we are witness to something special , almost other worldly .
Two hundred and fifty square kilometres of ice , 30 kilometres long , inching forward into Argentino Lake .
TRAVERSE 55