with it . The driver backed his van against a little hill and the men used it as a ramp to roll my bike into the back , followed by all my luggage . I hopped on to help hold the bike upright . Aidan frantically pulled on gloves and helmet as we drove out of sight and raced to catch up . A short , bouncy while later the van pulled into the courtyard of a half-finished house .
Unfinished homes were a common sight in this part of Turkey . People would start building a house using what savings they had . Often the money would run out before it was finished . Many lay derelict , but if the building is liveable at all , they would move in and complete it over time . This particular house belonged to the sister of the mechanic . Her entire family poured out of the upstairs door to watch the spectacle . Without a handy hill the heavy bike had to be lifted out of the van by as many hands as could get hold of it .
My ailing steed safely back on solid ground , the spectators ushered us up the stairs to wait for the mechanic . It was Ramadan and no one was supposed to eat or drink anything until sundown . Travellers are an exception , but drinking tea in front of everyone would have been strange , so we politely declined the offer .
After a quick discussion the family ruled hospitality more important , and we were told to sit on the carpet around a low table in the middle of the otherwise empty room . The women brought tea , followed by a feast of freshly baked bread , homemade soft cheese , tomatoes from the garden , rice dishes , salad , olives , and watermelon . The men joined us on the floor and tucked in , while the women sat on the chairs along the wall , eagerly joining the conversation . Per tradition they would eat later in the kitchen , but they weren ’ t going to miss hearing our stories .
Common language was limited and we pieced together the English and mimes . As happens often the conversation turned to what we do back home . When Aidan said he was an architect , they understood archaeologist and excitedly told us of how they had found some ancient ruins in a field not far from here . Someone produced a very old looking silver coin and they decided that we should come see the site and help them date the coins after lunch . They had been so kind and so happy to have an adventure of their own to share that we didn ’ t dare correct Aidan ’ s perceived profession .
The mechanic arrived just in time to save us an awkward confession . Everyone poured down the stairs to watch him analyse my bike . Had I checked the fuse ? How embarrassing . Of course , the fuse had blown and replacing it took two seconds . I almost willed the bike to blow it again , just to save face . But
TRAVERSE 68