away , the British ignore what they see as political taunts of a nation with ‘ economic woes ’. Younger Argentines seem to be a political yet do express concerns that so much effort and money is being spent on “ propaganda ”, during times of ‘ economic instability ’.
The conflict , and the history as a result , are disputed by both sides . It ’ s a conversation that you ’ d better be sure of which side you are speaking when addressing anywhere in Argentina . Safer to just assume you know nothing of the conflict and the politics .
The signs reappear as we head back into Argentine territory , now directing the traveller to the local airport and the distance to the islands by aircraft .
The roads begin to change with the landscape , no longer surrounded by vast plains and Argentine steppe we now see mountains rising on the horizon and with them comes trees , almost tropical . The riding is brilliant , still breakneck speed for a heavily loaded adventure bike . It ’ s enjoyable and a sign that we are nearing something different .
The lands of the Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego are like nothing else in Argentina , and yet our pace reminds me that we have no time to stop and take it in , to compose a few photographs . It ’ s disappointing to the point of almost breaking a heart .
With an exceptionally long dusk , a red hue on the horizon , we reach our destination , our first multi-night stop in over ten days . Ushuaia , claimed the world ’ s southernmost city , the people of Puerto Williams in Chile would argue that , the name itself means “ deep bay ” in the Yaghan language , a reason so many cruise ships are parked along the waterfront .
The Yaghan people have lived in the region for almost 10,000 years , if you ’ re prepared to search you ’ ll find a rich culture that relates to those
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