TRAVERSE Issue 32 - October 2022 | Page 83

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thing in the world .
The next morning , before leaving for Bacalar , Quintana Roo ( 485 km ), I visited the Misol-Ha and Aguas Azules waterfalls .
Getting to the Eco Resort in Bacalar , in front of the Siete Colores lagoon , which contains the blue cenote , was a struggle , I had not written down the name and address of the place . As I had no internet connection , it was impossible to look up the email address of the reservation , but I remembered that the name was something like : Ka Ku Kunka , Ca Ja Cos , Kuurch Ha Ka or Ai Ka Kan .
I rode about thirty-six kilometres at slow speed looking at each of the resort entrances for a name sign to jog my memory , until I finally came across a rustic gate locked with a chain . I stopped and just at that moment two off-road Jeeps appeared on the muddy inner road , stopped and two men disguised as Indiana Jones got out of one of them and opened the gate . Approaching them I told them that I was lost and that I had a reservation at an Eco Resort in the area , but that I couldn ' t remember the name , that it was difficult to memorize the Aztec words . They laughed and offered to let me in to connect to the restaurant ' s Wi-Fi . The resort was closed , it had no bookings for that night .
Carefully descending in first gear , down a slippery red dirt slope , crossing half of the wet jungle until I managed to park Eyya in front of the restaurant . When I went online and checked my bookings , I was surprised to read in an email that this was precisely the place where I had booked my one-night stay .
“ We don ’ t have any reservations for today ,” one of the surprised Indiana Jones types said as I produced the email for him to see . Indeed , it was this place , the Kuuch Ka , Ninnil Eco Resort .
The hut they gave me , built with tree branches at a height from where you could see the wonderful Bacchanal Lagoon , was beautiful . I dined on a small platform at the end of the jetty , protected by a mosquito net . The number of mosquitoes that accompanied me during my dinner was impressive . I bathed in repellent .
The next morning , I continued to Tulum ( 210 km ) via the Sian Kalan Biosphere Reserve , staying at the Eco Resort Hemingway , where I spent two days with only the company of two dogs , pets of the owner of the place , a seductive Englishwoman . I visited the pyramids and amused myself by taking pictures of the iguanas that have taken over the archeological complex ; the beaches are dreamy .
Leaving two days later , after resting most of the time on beds nestled in the sand facing the Gulf of Mexico , sipping gin and tonics , and working my way through the photographs , I took the road to Chichen-Itza , Yucatan , ( 152 km ) where I had the opportunity to indulge in a fabulous massage and appreciate , at night , the pyramid ' s " Light and Colour " show .
Breakfast in the morning in the gardens of Mayaland , the complex of cabins where I stayed , remembering the first time I had been there thirty years ago . At that time , it was possible to climb to the top of the pyramid , but today it is no longer possible , it is forbidden . I toured the archeological complex and was impressed by the ‘ space ’ where the heads of enemies were accumulated , a ‘ pool ’ surrounded by a wall where thousands of skulls , sculpted in stone , can be seen . In El Juego de la Pelota court I ask myself : How did they manage to manipulate a rubber ball , without using their hands or arms , only shoulders and legs , and make it pass through the small hole of the two stone circles at a height
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