road was rough , rutted dirt , littered with potholes with the occasional stream cascading across . Apart from the odd bit of green laning to a hidden camping spot , we hadn ’ t done much offroad riding and I became acutely aware how noticeably big and heavy my loaded F650 really was . And then the weather turned . Heavy , dark clouds threatened up ahead and we rode right into them . The rain turned the road to slick black mud . I dropped the bike and Aidan helped me ride it out . Then I dropped it a few more times .
When the rain stopped , the puddles remained , too murky to see how deep a hole they were hiding . Every time it seemed to get a little easier , it got worse again . The mud was relentless , and my mind went to a dark place . I just couldn ’ t do it anymore , it was too difficult , too miserable . I wanted to give up for today and camp right here .
Aidan saw I was in trouble and pulled over . He said that it wasn ' t that far anymore . I protested that
at this rate ‘ not that far ’ would feel endless ! This called for emergency measures . Aidan found some chocolate in the panniers and brewed some coffee . He really knows me too well . I agreed to try for another five kilometres and then we could camp if we had to .
As I munched away , I became aware of the breath-taking landscape . Cows meandering about . Little wooden houses dotted around green rolling hills , seemingly ducking under the grey sky . Even the rain was holding off for now . Back on the bike it still felt too heavy , but I decided to concentrate on the beauty all around me . The road followed the gushing river , grey rocks and puny trees clinging to the incline on one side , loose shale , and blooming weeds along the steep drop down to the water on the other . Then the valley opened , and we were greeted by yellow and white flowers in the meadows . I spied a village in the distance with square , ochre stone towers poking out far above the
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