A ragtag group of families loosely consisting of adults of dubious relation , a few adult children , and a couple of little ones . They were a variable commune on wheels - a caravan consisting of an older Suburban and a 90 ’ s GMC passenger van , overloaded with kayaks and other miscellaneous gear . I had admired them from a distance at one of the offices in Honduras , or maybe El Salvador , or maybe … who gives a shit … he ’ s speaking English !
“ No one here seems willing to tell me anything in any language .”
“ They think you ’ re CIA ” he responds , keeping his gaze fixed dead ahead . “ Excuse me ?” “ We ’ ve been here for four hours , but they ’ re just worried about our cargo . They ’ re x-raying the vehicles now . Looks like the military has taken a keen interest in you though . Good luck with that . My partner over there is pretty good with Spanish , let me know if you need some help .”
I scan the room looking for the rest of his group as he talks , but the office is nearly abandoned . We appear to be alone . He speaks in a slow , monotone drawl , avoiding eye contact while staring straight ahead . “ Why do they think I ’ m CIA ?” “ Not the best time to be in “ Nic ” right now . I gotta get these guys to Costa , otherwise I wouldn ’ t be here , no sir . They think we ’ re just a bunch of hippies though . They don ’ t give a damn about us , but you look the part .”
“ Look the part ?” I ask slowly and insistently , still frustrated at my inability to get a straight answer from anyone .
Without breaking his gaze , “ Tennessee-Jed ” proceeds to bring me up to speed on the current political climate in “ Nic ”.
In the wake of a failed coup to oust President Daniel Ortega , Nicaraguan police and pro-government paramilitary forces had killed dozens , if not hundreds of protesters , expelling five different human rights organisations and beating journalists along the way .
Still reeling from the retribution of a " tyrant hell-bent on the bloody repression of the nation " who was reportedly " rolling out an ' extermination plan ' for Nicaragua ", much of the country was still on a voluntary lock-down , almost a year later . Most foreigners , expatriates , and anyone with means for that matter , had fled the country , most yet to return .
Fueled by increasing international pressure and US sanctions , Ortega was extremely paranoid , especially of Americans . And , given the US government ' s reputation for backing coups in Latin America , who could really blame the guy ?
Enter me , a 40-something-yearold American with a shaved head attempting to enter the country
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