Then as we levelled off and spun along a straighter road , I knew we were passing the Swartland . An area where the wheat fields are honey-coloured at this early hour as the rising sun catches beads of night dew . I smelled the forested mountains as we neared them . Pine , freshly cut timber and moist bark . I knew the tangle of asphalt would come soon . As we cut through the Nuwekloof Pass , we slowed enough for me to recall a story to Big Mike . When the early Dutch settlers came to the Cape over two centuries ago , they set out to explore the region . On approaching the basin fringed by three mountain ranges ( now known as the Tulbagh basin ), there was no easy cut to access the valley and they had to summit the mountain to find a route down . There was long soft grass from one side to the other . With a light breeze blowing , the grass swayed and looked like waves rolling over a calm ocean . They named the area , ‘ Het Land van Waveren ’ - The Land of Waves . Today , one of the best organic wine farms of the area , lays on the opposite side . It ’ s called Waverly Hills . Again , I must confess to many a bottle happily consumed from here too .
As we entered the valley , we turned off to make a quick stop in the village of Tulbagh . Destroyed by a tremendous earthquake in 1969 , Tulbagh was luckily rebuilt and most of its former architectural glory encompassing Cape-Dutch , Edwardian and Victorian heritage sites were salvaged from the ruins . Today , the valley comprises of farms from one side to the other . Some fruit and vegetable , but mostly , wine . Some excellent Cap Classic and everything from fruity Merlots to smooth Cabinet Sauvignons . Olive groves dust the area in occasional patches and with its varied climate , even citrus and nut varieties are grown . We parked the Sym , which we were both now extremely impressed with , in the historic Church street and snapped a pretty picture before remounting , turning East and continuing on along the longest wine route on the planet . If not for the fact , that it was too early , we would not have been able to resist popping in for a quick taste . But that would come a little later . The best part of being the blind pillion ? I never have to be the designated pilot .
I had lived in the area many years earlier and I knew it well . Every bump and bend in the road seemed familiar . I knew that the massive Mostertshoek Mountain towered ahead and that just through another pass was the Ceres valley . We reached Waverley Hills Wine Estate , but the gate was still locked . Our tingling tongues would have to be a bit more patient .
After a little glide through the Slanghoek Valley , we stopped at Slanghoek Estate that was open . Finally . I say glide , because the road is so good and the scooter was so smooth , that it felt more like iceskating than riding . Slanghoek , by the way , means ‘ snake corner ’.
After a quick sip of their famous noble late harvest and a bottle or two squeezed into the side of the topcase , we rode on . We chose the Pinotage because it is made from grapes farmed nearby . Not just on any farm though . On a farm owned by a fellow motorcyclist . A guy so enthusiastic about having fun on two wheels , that he has built a motorbike enduro dirt track on his farm . Known as the ‘ Slanghoek Punisher ’, today it is where many newbies refine their riding skills . Wine and bikes , two of my favourite things . The local Pinotage cultivar has earned its stripes , having won multiple awards internationally . I think something about the hot mineral springs nearby makes the soil more suitable to grow full-bodied and succulent grapes . You can overnight at the Goudini spa next door and enjoy some time swimming in this thirty-degree Celsius water .
There are so many excellent wine farms in the Breede River Valley . Too many to mention , but some of my top choices are , Bergsig for Cape Port , Botha for their house blend called Dassies Roodt that is affordable and delicious . Jason ’ s Hill with a firstclass selection of wine made by the young female wine maker of the year and Badsberg for a sweet Noble Late Harvest that is addictive .
With our stash of Pinotage safely packed in a now bulging topcase , we rode another hour , coming to a stop just before the town of Robertson . Our destination , another special wine cellar , the world-famous Graham Beck Estate . I had been lucky enough to score an invite from Mr Bubbly himself , winemaker Pieter Ferreira . It was time to taste his impressive collection of Cap Classique . Making use of the original French techniques of Champagne , but not being able to hold the name due to the protected designation of origin status , in South Africa we simply call it MCC , Méthode Cap Classique . The Cape Classic Method of making bubbly . Pieter is one of the few cellar masters that have this technique in the bag . He may not have invented the most chosen tipple of the world ’ s elite , but I think he has perfected it . Thank you Madame Veuve Cliquot , we appreciate you figuring this stuff out , but , Mr Bubbles has it from here .
For over an hour , we spent time exploring world class MCC in the presence of greatness . Pieter and brand manager , Elbe , put on an impressive experience . On the tour , I listened attentively as I ran my hands over barrels ranging from old rough French oak to stainless steel vats and even some giant clay pots filled with aromatic experiments . Pieter led me through a smelling festival where I got to identify the aroma of different fruits that are typically picked up in
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