TRAVERSE Issue 19 - August 2020 | Page 53

their summer playground. As a consequence, the traffic has been nose to tail for fifty kilometres. Thank goodness for Moto Gelato, said I to myself, as I wove through the traffic on rutted melting roads with serious holes. There is no point, on this road, to overtake vehicles at speed; it is also singularly dangerous. And, in any case, there are junctions with and without traffic lights, queues of trucks and accidents. I limit overtaking to when the traffic stops or stalls; my life is worth more than twenty seconds gained when overtaking at speed. The journey then, is four hours instead of Google's projected one point five. No matter, I finally arrive at the designated hotel, a grey unprepossessing cube of thirty, three by three metre rooms. Reception was one of the bedrooms with no bed; a seemingly scatter-brained teenage girl in charge could not work out my booking. A young man, presumed to be her manager, arrived after being summoned by phone. It took him just ten minutes to tell me that the online booking I had made just thirty minutes earlier had been for the week ahead; there were no rooms in the Inn today. I did not mind; far worse happens. Also, I was sitting in the shade of their building, sipping water, taken from the bottle strapped to the bike. The water was hot, but sufficiently liquid on the tongue. The booking.com app on my phone treated me kindly once more. The hotels in the seaside holiday heaven of Zatoka village were booked to 92% but a bed was found a few kilometres on. Saddle up and on the way and I passed a hotel in which I stayed seven years ago after I could take the lavatories in the camping ground no more. It was here that I met Walter, a young German IT manager and his girlfriend – a fine couple. It was here that the rain fell so heavily that the main street was flooded to half a metre and impassable within a few minutes. But today, nothing but sunshine. And as the road ran out and turned into sand, there was the gleaming white walled Hotel Alba, sitting right on the beach with a cool breeze incoming. In the evening by bus and by taxi as the area has yet to be accurately Google mapped I am to meet, now that they have arrived by car from Kyiv, my business partner, her daughter, her daughter’s friend and her mother. I have known both families for fifteen years or more and we are relaxed and comfortable in each other’s company. The cuisine at this smart hotel is international and locally renowned, so naturally I choose a cheeseburger and chips. It was a delight to meet them all on TRAVERSE 53