TRAVERSE Issue 18 - June 2020 | Page 95

, I can ride anyinto Bolivia , inscrutable ur spent staring the middle of the sed for lunch. If that it was nothrs of bureaucraorcycles up a a wooden ferry ca. My partner, off my helmet to s of swimming in hould we capsize ion his day job is az at sunset. The unseen as you no. We darted t to make progress ffic. A driver in pened his door - I ’t miss the vomit pavement. Curses in my helmet. La Paz is an unexpected highlight of our tour. We left the bikes in safe storage and took the cable car down as the city emerged from hiding around us, lights and buildings clinging impossibly to the steep slopes, alive with a mass of people and music. The following day we would ride the Death Road; the most dangerous road in the world. Beyond La Paz, we visited Potosi, famed for a hill of silver, and the Salar de Uyuni where we posed for silly photos. The people paraded and danced in the streets, the scenery was beautiful and riding the ripio road was fun. Bucket list. Tick! At tiny Ollague, where the volcano puffs gently, we crossed into Chile. The travellers curse struck at San Pedro de Atacama. A handsome young doctor was called. I mimed my symptoms, and he asked me questions in Spanish. The confused charade went on for a bit until I men- 48