TRAVEL FEATURE - ITALY
EMILIO SALVATORI / CHRISTINA ZOLI
TRANSLATED - RACHELE VANUCCI & TRAVERSE
I
t’s with meticulous attention to
detail that the Archbishop of Can-
terbury, also known as Sigeric the
Serious, noted the eighty stages
that separated him from his diocese
on the way back from Rome. He’d
received, from Pope John XV, the Pal-
lium; a symbol of his new episcopal
dignity.
It was a 1,600 kilometre journey,
that through Sigeric’s personal ac-
count, gave us the oldest report of the
ancient pilgrimage route to Rome;
the Via Francigena (the road that
comes from France).
Up on Great St. Bernard Pass,
ready to follow the pilgrims’ footsteps
that travelled this old way of faith to
make a vote or, like us, for their thirst
of knowledge. Behind us the Swiss
turns and bends, in front of us a one
thousand kilometre long downhill
road that took us from the 2,500
metre altitude of the alpine path to
Vatican City and St. Peter’s Square, to
face the papal throne, the centre for
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Christianity.
The Via Francigena road has al-
ways been an itinerary of faith, but
also the straightest way to get goods,
people, religions and ideas from
London to the harbour’s of Puglia. A
journey that, starting from the Italian
side, began where St. Bernard worked
and where the great dogs named
after him wag their tails at us. To this
day the Barry Foundation, located
here, ensure that the famous breed
survives and work within hospices as
companion animals.
Made unpassable by snow and ice
for nine months of the year this road
is enjoyed by motorcyclists from all
over the world, including us as we
take delight in its smooth descent
from 2,469 metres to Aosta, a city
founded by the Romans on the Dora
River. So beautifully preserved that it
is still regarded as the “Alpine Rome”.
“I was so happy I could admire
those wonderful landscapes”, wrote
Stendhal (Marie-Henri Beyle). “That