TRAVERSE Issue 16 - February 2020 | Page 109

T R A V E L F E A T U R E - I ndia M A R I A V I S C O N T I ( words ) V I K A S P A N G H A L ( pics ) RECEIVED WITH OPEN ARMS S eeking a challenge? Ride in India. And I don’t mean Rajasthan with its perfectly surfaced high- ways across the Thar Desert. Most foreign riders start with Rajasthan because of the ease of getting there, the rich culture, castles, forts and colourful villages with their equally psychedelically attired inhabitants. You can start your India discovery ride there, but if you are a seasoned biker, you could head north to the Himalayas. Imagine the map of India looking like an ice cream cone with a cher- ry on top. Ladakh and the Zanskar Valley are the cherry, in many more ways than one. Flanked by China and Pakistan and close to Nepal, this harsh and remote region has spectacular landscapes, rugged roads (mainly dirt), little traf- fic, high passes, glaciers (said to run with precious jewels), thin air and the ubiquitous Buddhist Monasteries TRAVERSE 109 perching on impossibly high crags. The Zanskar Range, at an average height of 6000 metres, separates La- dakh from the Zanskar Valley, which can be accessed riding from Delhi via Srinagar, or from Manali via Leh, Ladakh. Flying to Leh and starting there is the easiest way. You can get acclimatised in Leh while exploring the nearby sights. This route is my favourite and one I had done four times in the last three years, the last time a couple of months ago. Here is how it goes: The Leh to Kargil road is superb both in quality and views. Tempta- tion to zoom through to Kargil will be almost overwhelming but a stop at Lamayuru is a must and overnighting there will be best. This quaint village crowned by its huge monastery and surrounded by a lunar landscape will reward you with incredible sights. Accommodation is great, either in guesthouses or at